Niiboshi

Rather than pushing the boldness of dried sardines to the fore, the ramen at Niiboshi invites you to savour the depth of the broth. It is a better fit for diners seeking a mellow flavour alongside soy sauce or salt than for those expecting a rich, assertive dried-sardine taste. Diners who tried the soy-sauce ramen said they noticed no bitterness or harshness from the sardines, and enjoyed a broth they wanted to drink to the last drop. Those who chose the salt ramen remarked on the texture of its thin, straight noodles and the broth’s satisfying depth without feeling heavy; they also enjoyed the large slice of chashu. The two regular options make it easy to choose according to your mood.

Toppings include seasoned egg, chashu, tender-shoot menma and nori. Diners have also praised the charred chashu, the pleasantly firm menma and the soft-centred seasoned egg, so adding a favourite topping is one way to make the bowl your own.

Rice offers another way to round out the meal. It is available on a self-service basis, and diners have described enjoying it with chashu on top. One idea is to add rice at the end of a bowl of milk miso ramen and eat it almost like a risotto. The milk miso ramen comes with powdered cheese, making it an alternative to the usual dried-sardine chuka soba.

Chilled ramen is also available in summer only. The menu lists Yamagata-style soy sauce, Wabushi milk and sanra. One diner who tried the chilled milk-style ramen with seasoned egg enjoyed its rich broth, springy noodles and chicken ham. Depending on the season, choosing between warm milk miso and a chilled bowl is part of the appeal.